Wythe New York is an emerging American gem

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new York

Designer Peter Middleton makes his mark, new York, like water for clothing-thirsty menswear shoppers with a soul – people who recognize the quality of design, materials and messages when they see them. “You can still find an oxford shirt or a sweatshirt, but a lot of brands miss the mark,” Middleton said. Robb Report. “It doesn’t look good. It’s not the same thing.

“How many gray round neck sweatshirts are there?” »Middleton asked GQ. “Millions. And when you sit down and say to yourself, man, what does this garment really mean? Why is a gray crew-neck sweatshirt a wardrobe staple? has it been with us so long? Why does it resonate with everyone? “

He wants to ask questions, but his brand answers just as much, at least for him. He sees a scene of men’s clothing riddled with holes. The holes, he says, push people towards vintage, “because there is a soul in these clothes. You can see it in the way they have been worn, the way they have been washed.”

Referring to her time working researching fabrics for Ralph Lauren, Middleton makes design decisions based on color and texture. He strives to replicate the intangible elements that make vintage clothing so interesting – the way it tells stories through scuffs and scuffs. Adjustment is obviously important too. His sewing sensibilities are skewed south, but they are genuine: he grew up in Texas, but it took a while to get away from his roots to realize that he actually loved traditional western clothing. (like Pearl Snap shirts).

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Raised in Texas, built in New York.

In New York City, Middleton grew to love things like Shetland jumpers, sturdy overcoats, moccasins with moccasins, and life in the upstate. He was inspired by Maine, the Appalachians and upstate New York for his spring / summer 2021 collection, Pine trees welcome at camp, which nods to “the fun and playfulness of the Adirondack’s first summer camps.” It features graphic sweatshirts with traditional necklines that are washed until they look like velvet; sweatpants which have undergone similar treatment; and a jacquard overshirt in ecru and undyed cream cotton thread with a tree line motif on the back.

For Fall / Winter 2021, Middleton pushed Wythe even further west: to Montana, where the collection’s lookbook photos were captured. It has yet to be dropped off, but it will include snap button flannel shirts, Shetland jumpers, a knit waistcoat, at least two overcoats and, from what we can tell, a jumpsuit and a few hats. . The collection was designed in New York City, Middleton is quick to admit, but the clothing feels oddly at home in Montana, draped over the back of a well-dressed jockey riding his horse in the distant mountains.

The lessons Middleton learned at Ralph Lauren is manifested in his own brand: Always pay attention to detail and value craftsmanship rather than responding to trends. But it’s Lauren’s greatest strength that I’m impressed – honestly delighted – to see Middleton embrace: world-building. Wythe feels both new and old and never out of place. It’s a brand with a built-in tradition (cuts that refer to classic clothing, materials that feel vintage) – and an innate ability to make you yearn for the outdoors, even when the designer lives in the city. .

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