Tributes to Alber Elbaz, fourth wall at Balenciaga and mini-skirts at Miu Miu – Glossy

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The first fashion week ever to be set up, Paris Fashion Week has quite a reputation to relive. Unlike the brands featured in other fashion weeks, the city’s mainstays – Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Hermés, Dior, Saint Laurent – stuck to the fashion week schedule, even avoiding it as the future. It’s like many other designers responding to new calls for fewer shows and a more sustainable schedule, as the world breaks free from its grip on Covid.

This season in Paris, the theme of joy seemed to run through the majority of the collections, while the designers focused on bringing lightness to the procedures. “It really felt like a sort of reunion,” said Maria Milano, chief merchant of Olivela, a fashion and luxury e-commerce site that donates 20% of every purchase to charity. “Both on the track and in terms of reconnecting people, I felt the community lacked inspiration.”

Other topics covered included brands that rely heavily on celebrities and influencers, as well as the intersection of entertainment and fashion. The week was also a time for fashion returns to the 60s and 90s, and tributes to fashion houses and designers of the past.

Looking back on past decades
Dior was the first of the big houses to show, with Maria Grazia Chiuri releasing a collection inspired by the house’s Slim Look collection from the 1960s, which included mod dresses and clean graphic shapes. Looks like the Dior boxing shorts have been repeated in multiple colourways, echoing the multi-colored set design by pop artist Anna Paparatti. While the show wasn’t particularly drastic, the brand performed extremely well in its social media coverage. In terms of Media Impact Value (MIV), it was the # 1 brand – both in overall brand rankings and in brand rankings by owned media – according to Launchmetrics. He was supported by his ambassador, Blackpink singer Kim Ji-Soo, who attended the show and was the top performing celebrity of the week on social media.

Designer Miuccia Prada turned her attention to Miu Miu, with Raf Simons co-designed for Prada. At PFW, the brand showcased mini skirts and a relaxed, modern collection with high cut jeans – a definitive tomboy vibe that seemed to bring a fresh air to the brand. It was also a show within the show, featuring past collections on the hall’s screens.

Celebrities and influencers are creating a buzz on the brand
The growing presence and reach of celebrities and influencers has been a recurring theme during this fashion month season. They included Cardi B at Richard Quinn, Dua Lipa walking in the Versace show and Camila Cabello and Shawn Mendez at NYFW. As for social media influencers, they mainly came from TikTok this season. The app hit 1 billion users in September, and fashion brands are increasingly aligning themselves with its biggest stars. Wisdom Kaye, who has 7 million subscribers on the app and signed with IMG after becoming known, paraded in the Balmain fashion show in Paris. Meanwhile, Abby Roberts, known for her iconic beauty looks, has been seen on catwalks from London to Milan. And Addison Rae attended the Versace show in Milan.

New collaborations combine entertainment and fashion
This fashion season has been reinforced by numerous collaborations on the catwalks, from the Mongenius concept by Moncler’s to the “Fendace” by Fendi x Versace. While collaborations within the fashion space seem to have multiplied, not much this season has worked to add value to both brands, bringing a point of differentiation to the hundreds of other collaborations underway throughout the year. Balenciaga, for its part, balanced its collaboration between the fields of fashion and entertainment through an episode of “The Simpsons”. The brand created a red carpet run for its guest-slash models which was televised to the public seated in theChâtelet Theater. Among the guests were celebrities and friends of the house, who sported the new collection and served as a presentation. Immediately afterwards, a 10-minute Balenciaga x “Simpsons” episode aired on screen. The mix of nostalgia and humor plays on the identity of the brand which has focused on subversion of fashion ideals while keeping its collections innovative and wearable.

Sustainable development and innovation: Mushroom leather, biodiversity and upcycling
Paris Fashion Week’s biggest shock came from the surge of support via social media for the Extinction Rebellion protester who was dragged out after showing a banner on the Louis Vuitton catwalk. It was written: “Overconsumption = extinction”. However, many onlookers believed she shouldn’t have been dragged and expressed his disappointment that the protest was not aimed more at fast fashion brands.

Some PFW brands like Stella McCartney, Marine Serre and Chloé have also re-committed to their circular fashion message. Stella McCartney launched an easy, asymmetrical collection with her first mushroom leather Frayme bag. According to the press release, “Mylo is a material innovation by Bolt threads and is a verified vegan, durable and animal-free alternative to leather made from mycelium – the endlessly renewable underground root system of fungi.

And, in line with the brand’s previous collections focused on upcycling, Marine Serre presented a collection made up of 45% recycled yarns and 45% regenerated materials. Chloe, on the other hand, focused on craftsmanship, low-impact materials, and supporting organizations like Ocean Sole, which recycles flip-flops into new shoes, and Akanjo, a movement putting craftsmanship first. plan in Madagascar. Some other brands have made sustainability commitments as well, but the overall presence of related initiatives has been disappointing.

Commemorations of the AZ factory in Balmain and Alber Elbaz
A large number of subscribers was the key to securing placement in the shows. Models like Naomi Campbell (11.5 million Instagram followers) and Carla Bruni (694,000 Instagram followers) embellished the Balmain catwalk, where Oliver Rousteing celebrated the brand’s 10th anniversary alongside an audio tribute by Beyonceé and 6,000 fans of the brand. This “Balmain Festival” raised funds for long-time charity partner RED in the fight against AIDS, as well as for Covid-19 and aid to women in developing countries.

Balmain’s Oliver Rousteing was also among the group of designers who commemorated Alber Elbaz, who died of Covid-19 in April. Forty-five designers came together in a heart-filled tribute around the Elbaz AZ Factory brand, reinterpreting the designer’s looks from past collections. Elbaz was a key figure in the industry, first at the helm of Lanvin, then in modular and inclusive fashion at AZ Factory.

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