Sukeina Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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Just as Omar Salam bends and knots his creations with precision in seductive ways, he introduces unexpected perspectives through his concepts and symbolism. Sukeina’s spring collection was rendered almost entirely in red for example, but the designer wanted us to see beyond this proud and powerful hue. “While the color is dramatic,” Salam said of his line-up, “it’s really not about the color at all. It’s more about the non-conforming nature of it.

The masculine cardinal inspired the collection’s palette and its meaning. (The female is brown and red). Unlike most species, which adapt to blend in with their surroundings, these birds, which are named after Catholic bishops (who wear red robes), do not. According to Salam, the Cardinal “is so focused and true to his belief that he doesn’t care how he is perceived” – what the designer called “radical acceptance,” based on trust in one “ creator who creates well” which motivated this collection.

These clothes were empowering even without the backstory. There would be no escape from attention in them, but not because they are particularly revealing of the body. Salam has stayed true to his body-con aesthetic and signature artisanal techniques. For Spring, last season’s harsh angles have been replaced with softer, more feminine touches. Lace inserts framed the mesh on a slender sheath; chiffon bows floated at either end of a boat neck.

The fashion eye adjusted to the mini-length, and Salam used it with a stunning graphic effect for a skirt, strapless party dresses and a coat. It also raised the bust line; a dress with a handkerchief hem and a strap just below the bust managed to look sexy and sporty at the same time. Another punch came from what looked like a pair of baggy cargo shorts worn over leggings, but were actually a single piece of clothing. “They’re like jester pants…with an almost cartoon-level exaggeration,” the designer said. Shown with a box coat, they were OTT, but they looked smashing with a vest.

As effective as Sukeina’s total look was, the pairing of elaborate skirts with a simple turtleneck or button-up showed how these special pieces could have “everyday life”. Other adaptations of Salam were less obvious. To prevent the chosen color from becoming repetitive, the designer said he used 32 different fabrications to ensure the red “felt cohesive yet ever-changing” – which also perfectly describes what Sukeina is as a brand. .

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