Marques’ Almeida shines the spotlight on craftswomen from the Azores in fall 2022 – WWD


Fashion brand Marques’ Almeida, which had adopted a more flexible and innovative way of presenting itself before the COVID-19 pandemic, released its fall 2022 collection on Thursday. The show was streamed live via the brand’s Instagram account and Matchesfashion, and parts were instantly purchasable.

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida, the duo behind the LVMH Prize-winning label, reaffirmed that showing the collections as they are delivered makes more sense for the brand.

“For us, we don’t feel comfortable with a rigid system and method of working,” added the couple, who studied together at Central Saint Martins in London with Louise Wilson.

The fashion show saw models walking through shallow seabed, as if walking between the sea and the sky. It was filmed in the picturesque Viana do Castelo in the Minho region of northern Portugal.

“It was very important for us to find a setting where there was authentic aquatic beauty and the nature that surrounds us, because the fall 2022 collection was inspired by our stay in the Azores islands in the Atlantic Ocean”, said said the couple in an email interview.

The collection offered a great range of garments with variations of the brand’s signature distressed denim, size-inclusive knits, tie-dye tops, patchwork dresses, as well as beautiful Azorean artisan fabrications as part of the M brand akers. mentoring project, which aims to empower local communities and preserve ancestral knowledge.

The artisans who contributed to the show are: Aldevina Serpa, a craftswoman specializing in patchwork, Sofia Afonso, an artist using fish scales and limpets for her creations, Sónia Bárbara from the Sol e Brumas label who makes giant hats with traditional patchwork techniques, and Fátima Ferreira, an upcycling artist who makes rugs with leftover fabrics from textile factories.

The duo decided to showcase concept pieces from Project M’akers with the main collection because they wanted to use the brand as a platform to help raise awareness for those without a voice in the fashion or arts industries. .

They noted that M’akers stems from work created from its environmental and social manifesto, which also includes Re’made, a collection made entirely of animal corpses, and See-Through, the brand’s digital magazine.

“The inspiration for the collection and development of M’akers happened organically, because when we traveled to the Azores we met many designers and talked about craftsmanship and how much we should cherish and cherish these traditional craft techniques,” the duo said.

“The M’akers are incredibly always led by women who are at the heart of their communities. These women carry the burden of carrying these traditions and techniques forward into the future. We wanted to be a part of that and help modernize them, to make sure those traditions don’t get lost,” they continued.

The two observed that the people who work on the front lines of the fashion system like these makers and artisans are rarely talked about or celebrated.

“So the idea was to find them, give them praise and power, and learn from them,” the duo added: “We were surprised at how committed we were and how they inspired us and changed the way we work They became fully central to how we viewed the fall 2022 collection, but the pieces were also central to the show, the first four looks on the show all featured actual pieces which are one of a kind and part of this research project.”

The duo said the goal of the M’akers Mentoring Project, ultimately, is to map out all craft techniques in Portugal and elsewhere in the UK and Europe, if funding is secured.


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Marques’ Almeida organizes the fall 2021 show on the longest suspended walkway in the world

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques’ Almeida win the LVMH award


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