Jiaen Cai, a graduate of the Royal College of Art, said he uses fashion as a way to explore the relationship between conflict, chaos and order, adding that his approach to design is similar to playing with Lego. .
“My collection is based on layers and components. These components are interchangeable, using my specially developed modular algorithmic system, which allows garments to be designed to form individual expressions, ”he said.
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“I am intrigued by sociology and technology. My JECai brand generates an opportunity for radical change in a controlled environment. Using this system unlimited iterations are possible using the attachment mechanisms provided on each base layer, component and additional component. The system also allows us to have a sustainable approach to fashion, as new components in the collection can still match old components in the collection, reducing the amount of waste created, ”he added.
The Chinese designer will make his debut on Sunday as part of the British Fashion Council’s Discovery Lab program, taking inspiration from the Taoism classic “Tao Te Ching”. It has assigned its base layers, components and additional components the numbers 10, 100 and 1000, respectively, so that the public will know the logic behind its garment system.
“The founder of Taoism Taozi explains how everything in the world is formed, from nothing to one, from one to many. My system follows the same ideology, from a system it generates endless possibilities,” said the designer. .
Beyond fashion, Cai said he wanted to expand his creative ideas to other categories such as furniture and accessories.
London-based Brazilian designer Joao Maraschin defines his label as a “hybrid of vibrant Brazilian tropical origins and European experiences” and a community-led brand committed to its environmental responsibility.
Maraschin founded the brand after graduating with his Masters in Fashion from London College of Fashion in February 2020. He seeks to apply an innovative approach to traditional Brazilian craftsmanship and work with new materials while taking an interest in circularity, to waste, reuse and ‘human-centered’ design.
His graduation collection caught the attention of the British Fashion Council and he was initially invited to show as part of the BFC’s Positive Fashion Initiative. This season, he will perform online with BFC’s Discovery Lab on Saturday.
The brand targets women over 30 who are “cultured, connected to nature and living life effortlessly, women motivated by making a positive impact through what they consume”.
Its spring 2022 collection, “Imagined Communities”, focuses on clean silhouettes with rich textures made by artisans from Brazil: the collection includes knits handmade from recycled fishing nets; colorful embroidery and personalized jacquards.
It is inspired by an imaginary community born from a mixture of different people. “I thought of indigenous, black and white communities coexisting in harmony, where respect is the glue. The influences are visible on exclusive textures and highly detailed hand-made embroidery, ”he said.
Maraschin has partnered with supply chain transparency solutions provider Everledger to integrate all handmade pieces into the collection with a microchip that records the garment’s lifecycle.
Thai designer Venice Wanakornkul started VeniceW while working in New York City after graduating from Parsons School of Design in 2018.
Now based in London, Wanakornkul calls the brand “Sci Fi-Linen”, a type of “imaginative fiction involving magic and fashion in linen”.
“I am in awe of the purity and holiness of flax in ancient times. For example, the Bible says that “angels wear linen” (as well as priests), and if you dig deeper you will find that linen clothing was a very respected material of all time, as it is worn during religious and royal ceremonies. ceremonies, weddings and funerals. Linen fashion today is easy to get hold of and a bit boring. I am thrilled with this challenge and I want to bring the magic of linen back to life for the 21st century, ”she added.
She said the brand aims to target people with wild imaginations who “also have a thing for cute animals.”
“We keep our slogan ‘Be friends with your clothes!’ We create fashionable items to enhance emotions, reduce stress, reduce loneliness and increase happiness, ”she said. “We want our audience to be happy. We offer a different perspective on the human relationship with clothing. It’s a fun affair when clothing is presented as a tool to empower the wearer, but we think maybe it should be the other way around. We humans should be the ones who give clothes their magic.
For the latest collection, the brand uses patchwork to shape the silhouettes of the “tree-shaped” clothes. She said some of the orb shapes look like poodle hair, while others look like trimmed hedges.
The brand also offers edible-looking accessories such as sachets in the shape of chicken nuggets or potatoes. The brand will present the new collection online on Sunday morning with Discovery Lab.
Founded by self-taught stylist Kai Cornwall and Central Saint Martins-trained textile and visual artist Ellen Critchley, gender-neutral brand British Mustard presents its first collection, “Incipience”, as part of London Fashion Week’s Discovery Lab program .
The duo said the concept was meant to represent how the brand “represents the empowerment and equality gradually gained around the world and in the fashion industry.”
Inspired by icons hidden throughout black history, each item of clothing is considered “an archival piece of armor that museums have forgotten to show to the world,” according to the designers.
“The collection takes us on a journey of elegant and playful clothes based on prints and textures. Each piece is a dedication to an important event, time or person who helped fight for change and racial equality, ”the duo added.
The designers created a textured pattern based on plant cells and blood vessels inspired by their research on 18th century colonial plantations. The brand will be presented in digital form with BFC’s Discovery Lab on Saturday morning.
Jennifer Droguett, Creative Director of Anciela, described the brand as “the culmination of Latin folklore, craftsmanship and the rich experiences of a childhood, combined with a foreign perspective gained from leaving the homeland and living in London. “.
Droguett said the brand not only offers reworked couture and ready-to-wear collections, but it’s also a creative platform that showcases Latin designs in London.
“We want to bring new stories, inspired by a rich culture that is often exotic and under-represented. I want Anciela to be a tool that can trigger positive change, ”she added.
Making its LFW virtual debut on Monday with Discovery Lab, the new collection is inspired by pillage, or patchwork images made mainly by women. They became a symbol of protest and political activism in Chile in the 1970s, and a way to heal from trauma.
“The pillage depicts the stories of vulnerable women in Latin America and artists like Violeta Parra. The technique was humble and mindful using available materials, in most cases scraps of old clothing and scraps of fabric. In the collection, they are made with offcuts from production fabrics, ”she said.
Inspiration also came from Victorian cyclists and the story of the Droguett family’s passion for cycling.
“Women’s cycling in the Victorian era offered ingenious ways to alter a women’s wardrobe by using channels, straps and buttons to adjust the length of their skirts. The prints are made with family photos glued and embroidered, as my grandfather and father were both professional cyclists.
Since the age of nine, Droguett has said that she recycled her mother’s old clothes and turned them into unique pieces. “With every item of clothing I make, I try to convey this feeling of joy that I felt as a child and give a piece that people can love and keep,” she said.
This upcycling process continues at Anciela. For spring 2022, the label has teamed up with the textile start-up Esce-tex using unsold products from Tencel and recycled cotton jerseys. She has also developed jacquards from recycled cotton and fibers from post-consumer waste in collaboration with textile designer Alice Timmis.
Katharina Dubbick, a 2019 Royal College of Art graduate, said she wanted to create “stimulating knits for the modern world.”
Based in Berlin, the brand specializes in fine knits with an ecological fold. According to Dubbick, the brand targets young professionals between the ages of 18 and 45 who live in large cities and are part of a cultural scene.
“They are looking for something different from what they know so far. They indulge in levels of hedonism and enjoy the nightlife, discos and cultural activities, ”she added.
The designer decided to launch her own brand last year with the arrival of the COVID-19 pandemic, as there were hardly any job opportunities for a knitwear designer.
“It encouraged me to do my own thing. I felt like I had nothing to lose, ”she added.
The spring 2022 collection, “Skinship”, was inspired by a pseudo-English Japanese word that describes the intimacy between a mother and a child, and explores the intimate relationships that can arise from skin contact between two people. She also refers to the sculptures of Hans Arp and Henry Moore for the silhouettes.
The brand will make its LFW digital debut on Tuesday morning with BFC’s Discovery Lab program.
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