Each season in Paris, some of the world’s greatest designers come together to present their most spectacular creations, closing Fashion Month on a high note. The pandemic derailed things, but for the spring 2022 shows, Paris was back in force. The brands have taken guests to the outskirts of town for experiences ranging from concerts to intimate debuts in unexpected places. More than ever, it felt like a season of renewal: new emerging designers to watch out for, new styles to excite and, most importantly, new clothes to covet. Here, a look at the things we loved about Paris Fashion Week 2022.
Set in wonderful Dior colors
Dior has proven that we all need a little color at times like these. Instead of doing a traditional parade where models paraded the catwalk, the set was redesigned in collaboration with artist Anna Paparatti, who paid homage to the colorful Roman nightclub The Piper Club, a mainstay of the brilliant aesthetic revolution of swing 1960s in Italy. The platform spun under the disco balls and the models descended one by one to walk the circular track. With a heavy dose of color and prints, the guests were mesmerized by the kaleidoscopic presentation.
The new designer Buzzy de Rochas
It’s been a quiet season in terms of designer debuts (a rarity in recent years), but there was one that stood out. Rochas, known for his flounce and romance, achieved a hard-hitting impact of prints, colors and youth in the hands of Charles de Vilmorin. At just 24, the designer had already received accolades from the industry, having been invited to show on the sewing program as a guest designer earlier this year. He is a recent graduate of the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, but he clearly knows how to make a difference and make a bold impact.
Balmain’s democratic approach
It was perhaps the biggest fashion show in history, with thousands of guests. Balmain opened his hybrid show-concert to the public, who came to attend live performances including Doja Cat, Franz Ferdinand, etc. Beyoncé opened the show with a heartwarming pre-recorded speech that touched on inclusiveness in the industry and Olivier Rousteing’s ten years at the brand. When iconic figures Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni took turns on the runway, industry insiders and fans from everywhere went wild.
Innovative shoes from Loewe
Jonathan Anderson decided he was going to focus on experimentation for the spring 2022 show. And he did, with 3D graphic protrusions in pastel tones. But the accessories were really special, perhaps some of the most creative and standout of the season. The heels were adorned with cracked egg yolks, bottles of nail polish, bar soap, birthday candles, and a single rose stalk.
Vigilant accessories from Schiaparelli
Sometimes seeing things in person is enough to believe them, and Schiaparelli’s jewelry is one of them. The lips, eyes, ears, and nipples that dot the Spring 2022 collection aren’t limited to jewelry, they also cover skirts, denim jackets, bags, and even swimwear, and they’re extremely lifelike and unique. This is exactly the kind of OTT glam we craved.
Yohji Yamamoto’s Subtly Impactful Show
After all the noise of returning to a regular IRL fashion week, we couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty of a little stillness. Yohji Yamamoto celebrated his 40th anniversary of Paris debut with a subtle show that spoke volumes. The models slipped the runway in pairs and trios wearing draped and twisted dresses in shades of black, gray and navy blue. Exhibited hoop cages covered in barely visible dresses closed the show and drew audible gasps from the audience, especially when each model presented a front row guest with a black rose rendered in fabric.
The collaboration of artists Killer de Givenchy
Matthew M. Williams launched his first in-person show for the Givenchy House, and he did so with a bold outlook. He infused classic silhouettes such as massive shoulders with pinched waists, or expertly tailored sculpted blouses with an explosion of vibrant color thanks to a collaboration with Josh Smith, the New York-based artist. Abstract faces, clown noses and gas cans dot the catwalk and bring a true sense of playfulness and modernity to the age-old fashion house.
Balenciaga track innovation
Even if things are getting back to normal, it looks like designers are having a hard time figuring out the next big movement in fashion shows. Before the pandemic, there was a definite feeling that the system had to change. Well, Demna Gvasalia may have started to figure it all out. For the Balenciaga spring 2022 show, the designer asked guests from industry, models and celebrities to walk the red carpet before entering a screening room to see everyone arrive. This was followed by an original Balenciaga-themed episode of The Simpsons that made everyone in the room laugh. The audience basically became the show.
Miu Miu’s hybrid show
It seemed like a lot of brands felt like they had to choose between launching digital shows via video or in-person catwalks, but you can always count on Miuccia Prada to deliver the best of both worlds. For the Miu Miu Spring 2022 show, the brand released a short film directed by Meriem Bennani that mixed with real-time footage of show guests, as models walked the catwalk in an exploration of universal clothing. All the essentials were there: khaki jackets, chunky sweaters, and for Miu Miu girls at heart, heavily embellished slip dresses and perfectly boxy skirt suits covered in shimmering pearls. Models paraded in the brand’s new collaboration with New Balance, while video played in the background on custom screens.
Chanel’s beloved social media comeback
There’s been a lot of talk about archival fashion lately, and there’s no doubt that vintage is becoming more and more mainstream. Plus, the 90s peaked in popularity in 2021. So, Chanel gave us the comeback show we all dreamed of. Photographers lined up on the podium as they did before social media, while Christine and the Queen cover the cover of “Freedom!” By George Michael. “90” played. There were also all the coveted looks of the late ’80s and early’ 90s. Heart-shaped flap bags, little logo rompers and butterfly prints were everywhere.
AZ Factory move celebration
The death of Alber Elbaz shocked and saddened the entire industry. But with it also came a wave of love and celebration that made everyone in the room cry. Over 40 top fashion houses from Dior to Thom Browne and Christopher John Rogers have come together to create tribute looks inspired by the designer’s unique aesthetic. At the end of the show, a handful of l0oks were also shown by the AZ Factory design team in memory of Elbaz. The show was not only sentimental but extremely moving, the perfect way to end the season.
Quannah Chasinghorse’s Escape Season
Quannah Chasinghorse walked the runway with Gabriela Hearst, Prabal Gurung and Jonathan Simkhai at New York Fashion Week. But she really made her way in Paris. 19-year-old Indigenous model Hän Gwich’in and Oglala Lakota has appeared at Chloe and Chanel. Chasinghorse is also a fourth generation land protector for the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, which is part of the Alaska Wilderness League.
New Parisian designers
This season in Paris saw one of the most diverse line-ups of emerging designers, many of whom were completely new to show in the City of Lights. Ester Manas presented a stimulating collection focused on sustainable inclusion, with dresses designed to fit multiple sizes. Meanwhile, celebrity-favorite line Dipetsa showed off her signature wet dresses with a mini-performance. Two new labels also stood out in terms of genre fluidity, which is not as common in Paris as in New York, London or Milan. Weinsanto, directed by Victor Weinsanto, who worked at Y / Project, Maxime Simoens, Chloé and is a protégé of Jean Paul Gaultier showed an explosive spectacle full of bursts of color and dramatic forms in the presence of Simon Porte Jacquemus and Adrian Joffe. Pressiat, showed off vaporous rave-ready dresses with dizzying platforms and sculptural blazers. Vincent Garnier Pressiat has worked for Margiela, Galliano and Saint Laurent and is also to be followed.
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