Emerging British designer SSDALEY proudly presented his first solo runway collection at London Fashion Week, and for Spring / Summer 2022, Steven Stokey-Daley worked with the National Youth Theater to produce something that is more than a collection, even more than a fashion show. – something that can only be summed up as really moving, impactful and topical.
Exploring the coming-of-age moments for a group of teens in both public and private schools, the SS22 presentation was presented as a play, littered with heartfelt lyrics, dark songs and stories about l education and the power it has over us growing up. From understanding her eerie identity to becoming Head Prefect, falling into unrequited love and finding yourself in the midst of an emotional conversation in the locker room, the play chronicles moments that many of us have experienced. , ultimately examining the intimacy of friendships and school, class structure and power, and understanding the complex world of “masculinity,” a thread often woven into her collections.
Speaking about it, Stokey-Daley said, “I joined the National Youth Theater when I left high school in 2014. It was the first time I met like-minded people, my life buoy lifesaving culture that opened up the possibilities of what I could do. . It is the greatest honor to work now with the current members of the National Youth Theater, whose contribution has been at the heart of my first collection of solo parades.
Divided into four vignettes, the actors not only relied on their talent to tell their stories, but also on the clothes. Styled by Harry Lambert, who dressed Harry Styles in a full SSDALEY ensemble for his “Golden” music video, we start with a playground, seeing trenches cut with balloon sleeves, a light blue and A-line black checkered single-breasted Mac, asymmetric collar vests, pleated front shirts and pajamas printed with nan wallpaper from Stokey-Daley – who herself works in the brand.
To continue, masculinity is explored with high-waisted rugby shorts – which are inspired by vintage Leeds team kits – while more flesh is on display thanks to a collection of vintage men’s swim vests. DaleyThe recent obsession with hand-made tapestries informs an oversized hand-knit cardigan that blooms with sunflowers, while the following vignette becomes even more personal as the designer has worked with a traditional silk mill in Yorkshire. to create your own blue and gold paisley print.
Here shorts and wide pants appear in cashmere alongside paneled silk pajama shirts inspired by vintage West Yorkshire rugby shirts. Pink and Olive silk cashmere was used to create a final suit, showcased alongside the exaggerated rowing jacket-inspired wool suit, while a final look of recycled satin bands comes together in the form of the frock coat. uniform cut Eton.
Throughout the performance, the actors frolicked with Arena Flowers, played rugby, and shared clothes, helping each other change and find their voices at the same time. That last point – finding their voice – is final for SSDALEY SS22, as the designer has found his voice in the saturated world of emerging designers, and we expect him to become a mainstay of LFW in the seasons to come.
For more fashion week benefits, take a look at NYFW’s demos of genre-less perfection.